{"id":11871,"date":"2016-09-29T11:07:59","date_gmt":"2016-09-29T11:07:59","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/barnes-portugal.test:8888\/?p=11871"},"modified":"2022-05-23T08:19:03","modified_gmt":"2022-05-23T08:19:03","slug":"lisbon-riverside-regeneration","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/barnes-portugal.com\/en\/2016\/09\/29\/lisbon-riverside-regeneration\/","title":{"rendered":"On the waterfront: Lisbon\u2019s riverside regeneration"},"content":{"rendered":"

Everyone in\u00a0<\/span>Lisbon<\/span>\u00a0says that, since Portugal\u2019s<\/a> great age of exploration, the city has looked far out to sea. It took a hand-written list of\u00a0<\/span>pratos de dia<\/span><\/em>outside a little restaurant on the Rua das Janelas Verdes \u2013 Street of Green Shutters \u2013 to add spice to that truism for me. Today\u2019s specials? \u201cTandoori chicken \u20ac6.50, pork saag \u20ac6.50, chicken dansak \u20ac6.50, pork biryani \u20ac5.50\u201d.<\/span><\/p>\n

The pork dishes tell the story on a plate. In 1497, Vasco da Gama\u2019s first expedition to the Malabar coast inaugurated Portugal\u2019s brief heyday as a maritime superpower and began an affair with India (above all in Goa, Portuguese until 1961) that persists until now.\u00a0<\/span>Ant\u00f3nio Costa<\/span><\/a>, Portugal\u2019s prime minister, comes from a part-Indian family that still has an ancestral house in the south Goan town of Margao.<\/span><\/p>\n

Costa helped clear the path for the latest, and boldest, project to restore the links between the city\u2019s hilly, labyrinthine old quarters and the waterfront that runs along the river Tagus to the sea.<\/span><\/p>\n

By the river at Bel\u00e9m, not far from the exuberant Jer\u00f3nimos monastery built to celebrate Vasco da Gama\u2019s return, the new Museum of Art, Architecture, and Technology (<\/span>MAAT<\/span><\/a>) will open on 5 October with a 12-hour jamboree of exhibition launches, music, and performance.<\/span><\/h5>\n
\"power-house\"
Power house: the renovated Central Tejo exhibition space at Bel\u00e9m. Photograph: EDP Foundation<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Visitors already besiege Bel\u00e9m (take the No 15 tram) to gasp at the show-off splendor of Jer\u00f3nimos. Its outsize riot of late-Gothic decoration bears witness to the country\u2019s short-lived burst of boundless confidence. Hordes also descend for a taste of the delicate\u00a0<\/span>pastel de nata<\/span><\/em>\u00a0(custard tart) served since 1837 at the prettily tiled\u00a0<\/span>Antiga Confeitaria de Bel\u00e9m<\/span><\/a>. A takeaway queue always snakes outside this cult bakery, but after waiting in line you can find refuge nearby in the seldom-visited\u00a0<\/span>Jardim Bot\u00e2nico Tropical<\/span><\/a>. Luxuriant and overgrown, this almost-secret garden, patrolled by lazily sauntering peacocks and wildfowl, gathers the trees and plants of Asia, Africa, and the Americas.<\/span><\/p>\n

If this riverside boasts an imperial heritage, it also has a gritty industrial past. The MAAT site lies next door to the Central Tejo, a hulking, handsome power plant-turned-exhibition space, already Lisbon\u2019s answer to Tate Modern. Together, these twin centers will form a 38,000-square meter artistic \u201ccampus\u201d. Central Tejo merits a visit in itself. In contrast to the Tate, its gargantuan turbines and pipes sit proudly intact within a red-brick cathedral of electricity.<\/span><\/p>\n

\"flying-saucer\"<\/p>\n

Flying saucer: the new Museum of Art, Architecture and Technology (MAAT). Lisbon. Photograph: Hufton+Crow<\/h4>\n

Alongside, MAAT looks slinky and inviting on this lovely but long-neglected stretch of the waterside. \u201cIt\u2019s as though you just drift into the building,\u201d says its British architect,\u00a0<\/span>Amanda Levete<\/span><\/a>, chosen for the project after a string of high-profile commissions including the V&A expansion in London (due early next year) and the transformation of Galeries Lafayette in Paris. The museum\u2019s 15,000 creamy, crackle-glazed ceramic tiles bounce sunlight off the river from its cantilevered frontage and down into the main galleries. The roof slopes up towards a broad terrace that rewards you with epic views both back towards the city, and out towards the ocean.<\/span><\/p>\n

Container ships glide slowly under the 25 April Bridge \u2013 named the Salazer Bridge after the Portuguese dictator, until his overthrow on that date in 1974. For much of the 4km between the Cais do Sodr\u00e9 station and the flamboyant Bel\u00e9m Tower, hectic dual-carriageways, railways, and tramlines conspire to sever the city from the river. MAAT will soon be connected to central Bel\u00e9m by a pedestrian bridge, providing a precious lifeline.<\/span><\/p>\n

\"City
City colours: jacaranda trees in bloom.\u00a0Photograph: Teresa Rosas\/Getty Images<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
As with many European ports, Lisbon spent much of the late 20th century turning its back on the messy, and increasingly redundant, a tangle of docks and wharves that had given it pomp and wealth. Now \u2013 as with Liverpool or Marseille, Bristol or Bilbao \u2013 culture and the leisure economy that partners it have driven the revival.<\/h5>\n

Back on the Rua das Janelas Verdes (Lisbon), the <\/span>Museu Nacional de Arte Antiga<\/span><\/a>\u00a0offers not only a rich miscellany of medieval and Renaissance masterworks \u2013 from Hieronymus<\/span>\u00a0Bosch<\/span><\/a>\u00a0and\u00a0<\/span>Albrecht D\u00fcrer<\/span><\/a>\u00a0to the unique St Vincent panels by Nuno Gon\u00e7alves \u2013 but a stylish garden caf\u00e9. Around here, in the neighborhoods of Santos and Alc\u00e2ntara, briefly fashionable clubs and bars blazed a docklands trail for artists, designers, and gallerists to come. Waterside chic still sprouts in patches. I wandered over waste lots behind the shells of half-demolished warehouses and came across a seedy bingo hall.<\/span><\/p>\n

\"Lisbon
On the right tracks: one of Lisbon\u2019s many trams. Photograph: Danita Delimont\/Getty Images\/Gallo Images<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Yet the regeneration game gathers pace, and nowhere faster than at the LX Factory. In the shadow of the bridge, this barrack-like complex was built to house textile workshops in 1846. Now there\u2019s a warren of new businesses, from design studios and courtyard caf\u00e9s to the cavernous\u00a0<\/span>Ler Devagar<\/span><\/a>\u00a0(\u201cRead Slowly\u201d) bookshop. Housed in a former print works, with a bar inside, this temple to the arts shelves its eclectic stock high up into lofty rafters in a vast hall presided over by a flying bicycle sculpture.<\/span><\/p>\n

Compared to the studied cool of its post-industrial counterparts in Shoreditch, Barcelona, or Berlin, the LX still has sacks of the offbeat, slightly reclusive, charm that old Lisbon made its trademark \u2013 and the renovated waterfront will surely retain. As the line from Leonard Cohen\u2019s \u201cAnthem\u201d, emblazoned on a bar facade here, puts it: \u201cThere is a crack in everything\u2026 That\u2019s how the light gets in.\u201d<\/span><\/p>\n<\/div>","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Everyone in\u00a0Lisbon\u00a0says that, since Portugal\u2019s great age of exploration, the city has looked far out to sea. It took a hand-written list of\u00a0pratos de diaoutside…\n<\/p>","protected":false},"author":3,"featured_media":11881,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[345],"tags":[2352,2353,2351],"class_list":["post","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","category-portugal","tag-house","tag-lisbon","tag-real-estate"],"acf":[],"yoast_head":"\nLisbon riverside regeneration | Real Estate | BARNES Portugal<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"Everyone in\u00a0Lisbon\u00a0says that, since Portugal\u2019s great age of exploration, the city has looked far out to sea. 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